On September 30, 2021, the world lost a great steak: The LaHood Park Steakhouse, a decidedly out-of-the-way joint east of Whitehall that over decades gained a following for its impeccable ribeye, filet mignon, and prime rib, was destroyed that night by fire.
LaHood’s owner has promised to reopen. In the meantime, though, Jefferson County is dotted with worthy beef:
Windsor Bar, Boulder
“This is just a regular bar,” says Soja Giulio. “But I’m sort of a steak snob.”
Indeed, the Windsor, which Giulio manages for her father, Boulder mayor Rusty Giulio, is understated. You enter through an unmarked door at the rear of the building, an historic edifice that, in the city’s boom days, housed the Windsor Hotel, and plant yourself on a bar stool or at one of the plain tables.
But the steak: It is simple — and simply great.
The Windsor serves three cuts: Ribeye, T-bone (pictured), and sirloin. They’re butchered at the nearby L&P Grocery, specially cut to 1 1/2 inches thick. Soja, or whoever’s tending bar on a given evening, seasons the meat with salt, pepper, and Chicago steak seasoning, then grills it over low heat.
The result is impressive: Tender, crusted, and profoundly flavorful. Like the Model T, you can get your steak with whatever sides you like, as long as they are a baked potato and Texas toast. Which is just fine: the potatoes are large and perfectly cooked.
Jackson Creek Bar & Grille, Montana City
When Matt Allgood left the now-defunct River Grill in Helena, he told himself he was finished with restaurant work. But when his wife, Angie Jackson, became head chef at Jackson Creek, Allgood found himself working the grill. The couple retooled the menu, selecting two steak offerings: an 8-ounce flat iron steak and a 14-ounce ribeye.
The ribeye comes topped with roasted garlic, shallots and balsamic butter. The flat iron is adorned with fresh chimichurri, which “I learned how to do from my dad,” he said. “I tried it one day and lo and behold.”
The chimichurri worked for us, unexpectedly complimenting the savory beef. The flat iron itself was exceptionally lean and cooked uniformly. Of modest size, the steak isn’t as much the centerpiece of the meal as it is co-star, sharing the stage with garlic parmesan mashed potatoes and broccoli. Those potatoes stood on their own, so tasty that the generous portion still wasn’t enough for us.
Chubby’s, Clancy
Chubby’s is a modest but lively joint just off Interstate 15 between Boulder and Helena. The dining area is set off from the bar, with a row of wooden booths lining the long back room. The service is consistently friendly, and the beer selection ample.
Chubby’s grills up a 14-ounce New York strip steak and an 18-ounce ribeye, with prime rib on weekends. Our New York strip was perfectly cooked and simply seasoned with salt and pepper. Generously fatty, this was a flavorful piece of beef — with a big baked potato and a crisp side salad.
Two-Bit Saloon & Grill, Whitehall
On the corner of the main intersection in downtown Whitehall, the Two-Bit has the feel of a crossroads: Folks come here to connect and gab. You have the feeling you’re among friends.
The kitchen serves three cuts: ribeye, New York strip, and top sirloin. We took in the sirloin. It was lean and well-cooked — and of the steaks on this tour, it boasted the most satisfying, most flavorful crust. We could have argued for more seasoning, but this was a serious bit of steak.
